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Archives for February 2025

02/15/25 Great Wall Hobby P-40 Fuselage Interior Prior to painting

Posting a quick Look at the interior of my Great Wall Hobby P-40, prior to the painting of the interior. All of the light green color is where I masked the parts to keep paint off. It’s much easier to do this rather than try and remove the paint afterwards.

You will find that you also cannot just glue the parts together with paint on them as the glue will not bond correctly to the plastic and pull off later on. This is true especially with cyanoacrylate, also known as super glue. Once dry, the super glue actually just bonds to the paint, and will pull right off the part. Normal model liquid cement which actually melts plastic for the bonding will have a problem with curing since the paint will cause the glue not to bond correctly

Great Wall Hobby P-40 1/32 interior

My plan is to use Mission Models paint on the interior, their version of zinc Chromate Green. I feel that this color is a bit too green but at this time I am not going to attempt to tone it down. As you can see in the pictures, all of the interior bulkhead locations have to be pre-painting masked along with the edges of the fuselage. It is a bit sad that all of the details will not be very visible once the fuselage is completed.

Written by Paul Caldwell, for Arkansas Fine Scale Modeling.

02/15/25 A look at the Underwing Flap details on Great Wall Hobby 1/32 P40

Great Wall Hobby P40 1/32 scale wing details

When I first received this kit when I started to read through the instructions, I was immediately drawn to to the main wing flaps. I noticed that all of the structure of the flaps was photo etch and each piece seemed that it involved some very hard bending. The Photo etch on that comes with the Great Wall Hobby P-40 (GWH) is very thin and thus you get maybe two attempts at a bend and after than the piece will separate. Their instructions show little arrows along each piece which is how you are supposed to bend the parts but I found that the arrows and directions were less than stellar. You also have one long piece of plastic that is to help support the lower flap when opened. I assume it’s an actuator arm. For each side of the wing, you have 8 different parts that have to be added. There are a few issues, the main one being that it’s very hard to hold the parts once they have been bent since due to the folds you cannot get your tweezers around them without resending the folds back over. You can take a look at a few of these parts in the image below.

Flap parts individual
Individual main wing flap supports

Once you have all the various piece folded you can line them up along the wing to attach them. Here I ran into yet an another issue in the alignment. Make sure you allow for the large single piece of photo etch that sits on top of 3 of the supports. If you don’t have the correct alignment, this piece will not look correctly placed. In the gallery below you can see many different viewing angles of the parts in place on the wing. Click on any image to start a Lightbox gallery for better viewing. Also if you are viewing this article on an iPad or iPhone you can pinch to zoom into the images for more details.

I had planned to use Ultra glue to attach these parts to the plastic. Ultra glue is made by “Ammo by Mig” and is an excellent glue for photo etch. However the pieces need to be able to fit flush with no resistance as the glue does not have an instant bond. Instead I had to use Cyanoacrylate (super glue) to get the parts to stick in place. This was a bit tricky since you have to make sure you have the correct alignment before you stick the part. If your alignment is off, it’s best to use the cyanoacrylate debonding agent, pull the part off and start again. My finished effort is not perfect, but I am overall pleased with the final look.