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02/15/25 Great Wall Hobby P-40 Fuselage Interior Prior to painting

Posting a quick Look at the interior of my Great Wall Hobby P-40, prior to the painting of the interior. All of the light green color is where I masked the parts to keep paint off. It’s much easier to do this rather than try and remove the paint afterwards.

You will find that you also cannot just glue the parts together with paint on them as the glue will not bond correctly to the plastic and pull off later on. This is true especially with cyanoacrylate, also known as super glue. Once dry, the super glue actually just bonds to the paint, and will pull right off the part. Normal model liquid cement which actually melts plastic for the bonding will have a problem with curing since the paint will cause the glue not to bond correctly

Great Wall Hobby P-40 1/32 interior

My plan is to use Mission Models paint on the interior, their version of zinc Chromate Green. I feel that this color is a bit too green but at this time I am not going to attempt to tone it down. As you can see in the pictures, all of the interior bulkhead locations have to be pre-painting masked along with the edges of the fuselage. It is a bit sad that all of the details will not be very visible once the fuselage is completed.

Written by Paul Caldwell, for Arkansas Fine Scale Modeling.

02/15/25 A look at the Underwing Flap details on Great Wall Hobby 1/32 P40

Great Wall Hobby P40 1/32 scale wing details

When I first received this kit when I started to read through the instructions, I was immediately drawn to to the main wing flaps. I noticed that all of the structure of the flaps was photo etch and each piece seemed that it involved some very hard bending. The Photo etch on that comes with the Great Wall Hobby P-40 (GWH) is very thin and thus you get maybe two attempts at a bend and after than the piece will separate. Their instructions show little arrows along each piece which is how you are supposed to bend the parts but I found that the arrows and directions were less than stellar. You also have one long piece of plastic that is to help support the lower flap when opened. I assume it’s an actuator arm. For each side of the wing, you have 8 different parts that have to be added. There are a few issues, the main one being that it’s very hard to hold the parts once they have been bent since due to the folds you cannot get your tweezers around them without resending the folds back over. You can take a look at a few of these parts in the image below.

Flap parts individual
Individual main wing flap supports

Once you have all the various piece folded you can line them up along the wing to attach them. Here I ran into yet an another issue in the alignment. Make sure you allow for the large single piece of photo etch that sits on top of 3 of the supports. If you don’t have the correct alignment, this piece will not look correctly placed. In the gallery below you can see many different viewing angles of the parts in place on the wing. Click on any image to start a Lightbox gallery for better viewing. Also if you are viewing this article on an iPad or iPhone you can pinch to zoom into the images for more details.

I had planned to use Ultra glue to attach these parts to the plastic. Ultra glue is made by “Ammo by Mig” and is an excellent glue for photo etch. However the pieces need to be able to fit flush with no resistance as the glue does not have an instant bond. Instead I had to use Cyanoacrylate (super glue) to get the parts to stick in place. This was a bit tricky since you have to make sure you have the correct alignment before you stick the part. If your alignment is off, it’s best to use the cyanoacrylate debonding agent, pull the part off and start again. My finished effort is not perfect, but I am overall pleased with the final look.

Great Wall Hobby P-40 1/32 Underwing Flap details

I have moved on with the GWH P-40 by finishing out the flaps on the wings. The kit has only Photo etch for the details and this is by far the trickiest part of working with the model. Click on any of the images below to start a Lightbox gallery for better viewing.

The Photo Etch from Great Wall Hobby is very thin to start with. The sheet that all of the photo etch comes on is slightly curved so all the pieces depending on size will need to be flattened. The individual parts for the main wing flap support required by far the most complicated bending. NOTE, due to the very thin nature of this photo etch, you can get by with one re-bend but after that the part will separate. Each of the upper wing supports for the main flaps are lined up over the flap actuating rods. You can see these in the pictures in the gallery.

I first tried to use Ultra Glue to hold each part down since I knew that if I used CA I would only get one try to locate these parts. However the ultra glue did not hold well since it has a longer drying time and the flap actuating rods pushed up on the photo etched parts. I also started locating the individual supports in the wrong orientation. This become critical when you attempt to place the single large photo etch covers over them. NOTE, I believe that Great Wall Hobby made a mistake with these covers in that they made them exactly the same and they should be mirror images of each other. When you attempt to mount the part on the right side, you will find that it will not fit unless you turn it upside down, but then you lose all of the extra details in the photo etch. In the image below you can see where I had to drill a hole into the part to get it to fit. This part and the part on the left are identical, not mirrors of each other.

Close up of upper right wing support showing error in design

The individual part themselves are very tricky to work with as you are bending the top, bottom and side. Also once you have bent all of the top, there is nowhere to hold the part as you are placing it. I ended having to straighten the back top where it bends down to hold the parts.

The actual flaps also have photo etched pieces that need very careful bending, however they are much easier to place on the plastic since they are less complex in nature.

Individual main wing flap supports

One last photo to show the individual supports. Here you can see a bit more of the complex amount of bending that is required. Also note, I feel that the instructions are not very clear on how these parts are to be bent. The drawings are a bit vague so when you get to this stage of your build slow down and really look at the image of the final part on the instructions.

Great Wall Hobby 1/32 P-40 Wing Details

I am slowing working forward on this kit. I wanted to show some of the finer details of the wings. The actual rivet details are about the best I have seen on any 1/32 kit. They are recessed but very fine and I would assume very close to scale in size. In reality, these rivets would be raised ever so slightly but when working on a model it’s very easy to sand down raised rivets while assembling the parts. You really can’t replace a raised rivet, it is possible with tools to re-draw recessed rivets if you happen to fill them by accident. In the galley below you can see various views of this kit’s wings. Click on any image to enlarge and start the Lightbox to view all of them.

On issue I had was with the ammo bay covers. You have the option to show these open or closed. I choose to leave them closed, however you still have to place both covers over the opening. The photo etch is very thin and slightly curved when it comes off the main photo etch sheet, so placing them in the exact location was not easy.

Used Ultra glue by “Ammo by Mig” to place these pieces. I knew that if I tried to use CA glue I would have problems since that type of glue would bond the photo etch to the plastic immediately. So if I happened to position the pieces incorrectly removing them would have been a problem. I placed the inner doors first, let them dry overnight, then placed the top door. Getting the inner door placed was the biggest problem as you don’t have much of an inner lip to put the part.

Ammo bay door for Great Wall Hobby P-40
Close up of ammo bay cover

Not the best picture, you can see the very fine recessed rivet detail on this wing and the ammo bay door in place. The opening above the ammo bay door is for the 50 caliber machine gun.

Great Wall Hobby P-40 Fuselage

Great Wall Hobby P-40 Fuselage
Partial finished interior of Great Wall Hobby P-40

I am gradually getting the interior finished on my P-40 by Great Wall Hobby. There is a lot of very fine detail inside this model, sadly none of which will be visible once the fuselage is completed. You can leave the outside hatch open to allow someone to get a very slight restricted view however most of the hoses and tanks will not be seen.

Great Wall Hobby P-40 1/32
Great Wall Hobby P-40 showing part of the Fuselage Interior

Now I have added the large tank which is directly behind the cockpit. If you look closely on the bottom of the fuselage, you can see all of the fine coolant and oil lines that are along the bottom of the aircraft. That these were able to be moulded so well in 1/32 scale is an impressive feat for Great Wall Hobby.

Great Wall Hobby P-40

Both wings to show details

The image shown above will open a gallery displaying more images, just click on the image.

After working on this kit for a few days, I have been very surprised at just how well the fit of the various parts is. As you can see in the gallery above all the parts of the engine cowling are dry fitted together. There are no visible gaps or areas that need filling. Only a bit of glue.

The other aspect of this kit is the fact that you can display the plane with either the engine exposed or just the nose of the plane attached. This is done with magnets. You build up the engine and on the firewall there is a place to attach a magnet, which then allows the fully exposed engine to be shown on the airplane. Or, you build up the nose of the plane with the exhausts and air intake with the firewall attached to the back. Again a magnet allows you to attach this full assembly to the rest of the airframe. 

This is a huge improvement over other 1/32 kits that have engine assemblies. All of the other kits (besides the Tamiya P-51) will have all the separate pieces of the engine cowling available so that you can have them open to show the engine. However so far in all the 1/32 kits I have built up with this style of build the various cowling pieces never line up well, leaving gaps that have to be filled if you want the engine covered. 

Leaving the various cowling parts open leaves a lot of problems. Painting the airplane becomes problematic especially more complex paint schemes like the ones on German WWII fighters. Also over time the exposed individual parts will break off as they are quite exposed and fragile. Once broken, it’s never easy to get them back on. Unless you are building a diorama showing the airplane under maintenance, I never really want to leave cowlings open. 

The other big issue is of course the time you spend building the engine is pretty much wasted as it will be totally hidden by the cowlings. Most of the modern 1/32 kits have very nicely detailed engines, both in-line and radial.

Paul Caldwell